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Archive for the ‘Pakistan-A trove of wonders’ Category

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Cross posted from Sadaf Arshad’s blog

An honest answer to one simple question about your identity as a Pakistani or a Muslim explains the roots of extremism and an increasing intolerance among this society. I was asked this question many years ago, and my answer was not logical rather an abrupt and sudden gush of emotions. I said I am a Muslim first. The later years have weakened or killed that emotion and today I would like to answer in a different way.

The white patch in Pakistan’s flag which seems evaporating now, determines the answer. We are Pakistani first is a simple answer to this white patch. The difference in views of majority is stark. Majority now dreams of a homeland only for Muslims and the survival for rest depends on their submission to majority’s religion.

A few months ago, my friend Saad Sarfraz Sheikh, went to Kalash, a beautiful valley in the northwest of Pakistan, to capture its exotic beauty and rich culture. A tiny tribe of total 4,500 people, which cannot be a considerate share of the total 180 million Pakistanis, is about to be nonexistent. He returned with breathtaking pictures, but seemed perturbed. In the middle of the Kalash fairytale, he mentioned his visit to a school which did not have pupils for some unknown and known reasons. The school’s timetable shows a class of Islamic studies for the students who do not believe in Islam. How would Muslims feel if they are forced to attend a class on Christianity? In my view, they will be marching on roads, burning tyres and property, and calling it a threat to Islam and a Jewish conspiracy against Muslims. My friend mentioned that how tremendously Kalash has changed due to the extremist elements forcing the people to convert to Islam. Some radical Muslims, bound to spread Islam by force, began building mosques in the valley for Kalashs, who claim descent from Alexander the Great’s army.

The valley runs along the border of Afghanistan and for centuries, they sacrificed animals and practiced polytheism without any interference from the Muslim community.

So what has changed now? The youth of this country, mainly inspired by Jihad against then Soviet Union, have grown up brandishing radicalized version of Islam. The concept of coexistence is at stake in this country, which has minimized the chances of survival for our minorities. Now the question arises that can all flee from this country in sheer despair and frustration? Will this country have space only for a particular sect of Islam? But we need to ask ourselves if we are humans or Pakistanis first or Muslims later? If the answer is Pakistanis first, I see hope.

Reuters Story:

Nestled among the valleys of Pakistan’s mountainous northwest, a tiny religious community that claims descent from Alexander the Great’s army is under increasing pressure from radicals bent on converting them to Islam.

The Kalash , who number just about 3,500 in Pakistan’s population of 180 million, are spread over three valleys along the border with Afghanistan. For centuries they practiced polytheism and animal sacrifice without interference from members of Pakistan’s Muslim majority.

But now they are under increasing danger from proselytizing Muslim militants just across the border, and a hardline interpretation of Islam creeping through mainstream society — as Pook Shireen discovered.

After falling unconscious during a car accident , the mid-20s member of the paramilitary Chitral Scouts woke to find that people with him had converted him to Islam.

“Some of the Muslim people here try to influence the Kalash or encourage them by reading certain verses to them from the Koran,” said his mother, Shingerai Bibi.

“The men that were with him read verses of the Koran and then when he woke up they said to him, ‘You are a convert now to Islam’. So he converted.”

The conversion was a shock for his family. But they were lucky compared with other religious minorities under threat from growing religious conservatism that is destabilizing Pakistan, a nuclear-armed U.S. ally.

In May 2010, more than 80 Ahmadis, a minority who consider themselves Muslims but are regarded by Pakistan as non-Muslim, were killed in attacks on two mosques in Lahore.

Then in March this year, the Christian minorities minister, Shahbaz Bhatti, whose job it was to protect groups like the Kalash, was assassinated outside his home in the capital, Islamabad, in an attack claimed by the Pakistani Taliban.

SMOOTH CO-EXISTENCE

The lush green Kalash valleys, which sit below snow-capped peaks of the Hindu Kush, have been a magnet for tourists, both for the scenery and for the people, who are indigenous to the area.

Most are fair and with light eyes, which they say proves their descent from the army of Alexander of Macedonia that passed through the area in the 4th century BC to invade India. The community brews its own wine and women are not veiled.

But the smooth co-existence between the Kalash and Muslims has been fading in recent months and the area is suffering from many of the religious tensions marring the rest of Pakistan.

The conversions are causing splits among the Kalash — converts become outcasts overnight, described by many as “dead to their families”.

“When a Kalash converts we don’t live with them in our houses anymore,” said farmer Asil Khan, sitting on a neighbor’s balcony.

“Our festivals and our culture are different. They can’t take part in the festivals or the way we live.”

Some in the area are so concerned that they believe segregation is the only way to protect the Kalash.

“We should move the Muslims out of the valley to make more room for the Kalash,” said Shohor Gul, a Kalash member of the border police who lives in Rumbur valley. “This area should be just for us. We dislike these conversions – it disturbs our culture and our festivals, and it reduces our numbers.”

The subject of Kalash festivals is raised often in these narrow valleys, where carefully cultivated corn crops cover what flat land exists, and the Kalash community’s distinctive wooden houses terrace the valley walls.

Held to usher in seasonal change or to pray for a good harvest, Kalash festivals include hypnotic dancing and animal sacrifice, fueled by the grape wine with which the Kalash lace their gatherings.

Converts to Islam say, though, that these rituals quicken the decision to leave the Kalash.

“The main thing wrong in the Kalash culture are these festivals,” said 29-year-old convert Rehmat Zar. “When someone dies the body is kept in that house for three days.”

Muslims usually bury people the day they die.

Zar added of the Kalash: “They slaughter up to a hundred goats and the family are mourning – but those around them are celebrating, beating drums, drinking wine and dancing. Why are they celebrating this? That’s wrong.”

NOT ALL MUSLIMS

Not all of the area’s Muslims feel this way.

Qari Barhatullah is the imam, or priest, at the Jami Masjid in Bumboret valley’s Shikanandeh village.

He stresses that many of the valley’s Muslims value the Kalash’s contributions to the area’s tourism industry and contends that Kalash festivals run parallel to their own.

He admits though that there is tension between the two communities. Unveiled Kalash girls in colorful homemade skirts and head-dresses grow up alongside Muslim women covered by the all-enveloping burqas.

The Kalash girls are also free to marry who they chose, in a country where arranged marriages are common.

“We do support the Kalash – Islam teaches us respect for other religions – but there are people here, maybe they are not as educated – who don’t like the Kalash because of their religion,” Barhatullah said.

Akram Hussain oversees the Kalasha Dur, a cultural center devoted to promoting and protecting the Kalash culture, a stunning structure of elegantly crafted carved wooden beams and stone where Kalash children are educated. It also houses a library, clinic and museum, which are open to both the Kalash and Muslim communities.

“Some of the Muslims here don’t want to educate the Kalash people. They don’t want us to have an education,” he said.

Without more schools that cater exclusively to the Kalash, though, Hussain worries his community and culture will be disappear.

“There are few Kalash teachers and there aren’t schools for older children, so they go to the secondary schools and learn about Islam. The Muslim teachers are brainwashing them. They tell the children that Islam is the only right way and that we are going to hell,” he said.

A provincial spokesman said the regional government is funding development projects for the Kalash and that Pakistan was committed to protecting their unique heritage.

“We have set aside 15 million rupees ($173,210) over three years for projects such as improving roads, water supply systems and community centers,” said Ahmad Hassan. “Whatever the Kalash say they need.”

Others in the Kalash valleys though say development should cease and insist the adoption of Islam should continue, despite the impact on the Kalash culture.

Rehmat Zar, the Kalash convert, says his eventual aim is to convert his entire community to Islam.

“I’m trying my best to convert many of the Kalash myself. I’m trying to convert as many as I can,” he said.

“The people who are trying to preserve the Kalash culture are doing wrong. They are committing a mistake. The Kalash should convert to Islam because this is the real, and last, religion”. ($1 = 86.600 Pakistani rupees)


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 Naw’roz  comes when spring blossoms on Earth, when the trees are crowned with leaves, when you hear the nightingale pour out its song for the rose, when the orchards hang out its lanterns. It is a season to celebrate, to enjoy and an expression of elation for body’s lacma_norooz_2012soul. To experience this magnificent beauty of nature my soul goes on dancing and my thoughts turn towards Him who creates everything. You may not perceive Him but you can feel His presence there on the lips of the rose or in the song of the Nightingale- chanting out loudly “He is here, He is here”.

Naw’roz or Navroz is a Persian word which means “New Day”/ “New Light”. It is the first day of Persian calendar which falls on 21st March of each year. The history of Nav’roz goes back to many hundreds of years ago. It is believed by some that it was the day of Nav’roz when Hazrat Adam(a.s) was bestowed with the soul. It was the day of Nav’roz when Hazrat Abrahim(a.s) destroyed the idols. It was the day of Nav’roz when Hazrat Noah (a.s)’s Ark got rescued. It was the day of Nav’roz when Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) received the first revelation. It was the day of Navroz when Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) revealed the final message at Ghadir-e-Khum.-(Imam Jafar Sadiq -6th Imam of Shia Muslims quoted in Bilhar al-Anwar). Further the significance of the day is also explained in many poems of Shams Tabriz (mentor and master of Rumi) which is also followed by his students in the now famous Mathnawi. Scholars, philosophers from different schools of thoughts have also penned down the beauty of Nav’roz on various stages.

Every community celebrates Nav’roz in their own unique ways. It is celebrated in various parts of the world. In Pakistan, it is celebrated by Shia school of thoughts particularly by Ismailis. I grew up in a very beautiful valley of Pakistan-Chitral, where inhabitants greet this festival with wild jubilation. The green season all around the landscape makes the village a true fairyland. Birds sing in spring, brightly colored flowers sprout up everywhere and give different look to the valley.

(A Family is Celebrating Nav’roz in Tajikistan)

Nav’roz in local tongue called “Pathak” being the famous festival of Chitral among the Ismaili Muslims marks the arrival of spring. It is worth seeing and experiencing the day in Chitral especially the way the rituals are being carried out. I remember some memories of my childhood. At around dawn people clean their houses and get ready for the new day. They wear new clothes and visit each other’s homes to share the happiness. They believe that whatever they do on the first day will influence the rest of their year. The traditional foods of Chitral are must of the day to serve the guests. Boys and girls in separate groups go to each other’s homes to greet one another. Upon the arrival of the guests the host family members greet them in traditional way. A pinch of flour is showered on the right shoulder of the guests as mark of respect. Various games are also organized on this day.

Another reason to celebrate this season is to mark the successful conclusion of Sufi/Pir Nasir Khusraw’s 40 days of meditation. Khusraw was a Fatimid era Ismaili dai (mystic),poet and philosopher who was the first Sufi to seed Islam in Central Asia, Afghanistan and in north of Pakistan. With a little inquiry I’m honoured to come to understand the historically “Pathak” (Nav’roz) used to be common Chitrali festival celebrated as seed sowing ritual. Since 1980s when Gen. Zia ul Haq started sowing the seeds of terrorism and sectarianism; the festival became exclusively Ismaili. Pathak still remains a binding source among the Chitrali community. Let’s celebrate nav’roz day with the same jubilation as we used to before!

E’ed Nav’roz   (Nishat Afroz) Mubarak to all of you. ” Boombarako Boshad”

Nooru Jalal

It has been published in

The AsianUK

Aalmiakhbar

Chitral News

 Chitral Today

 Chitral Times

and in Ismaili Mail.

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Chitral, the mythical landscape, one of the most natural famous wonders of Pakistan and one of the world’s most beautiful valley, lying in the midst of Hindukush Range. The land of fairytales is  blessed naturally with luxuriantly green orchards, streams full of dancing waters, roaring rivers and meadows stretching in the quietude like that of heavens at a height which is unique feature of Chitral.

The blue of sky, the emerald of flora and the turquoise of water add to the palette, nature has used to paint this landscape full of mountains, trees and flowers with a divine composition of colors and the brightness of the rising sun, worshiped by the whiteness of the snow which, on some peaks, have never melted for millions of years.

Photo courtesy: VOI “Mastuj- Chitral”

Spring in chitral has a myriad of coleus, shapes and hues. It is a season to enjoy, celebrate and experience the height of delight , an expression of elation for your body and soul. Birds sing in spring, plants ornate with new leaves, brightly colored flowers sprout up every where. This is a scene which can’t be described in words; it’s a scene which must be experienced.

Chitral lost its royal status in 1969 and joined Pakistan. General Yahya Khan made it a settled district of the newly created Malakand Division of Khyber Pukhtunkhaw. The valley also enjoys the neighborhood of China and Tajikistan to the north and Afghanistan to the northwest and surrounded by gigantic mountains. The terrain is full of variety peaks  with diversity in the heights such as the world-famous  Terich Mirr (7,708m) peak is one of them which, against the calm blue sky, shimmers to the maximum and creates an illusion to captivate the eye up to a level where time seems to be stopping for ever.

Photo courtesy:  Afzal Aman  (Terich Mirr view)

The valley has seen invasions of the horse ridden Greeks, the Persians , the British, and sturdy Afghans and many other hordes of attackers including the Muslims. Having seen and experienced many invaders, the  Chitralvadis  through their spirit  never allowed the other dynasty to fully sway over their affairs, which is why the loam of this area has engrossed the aroma of different civilizations and the culture of various bordering nations but retained its distinct identity.

The people of Chitral, show traces of Persian and Turkish ancestry. They are known for their peaceful, uncomplicated character and unique cultural.  It’s the place of simple trustworthy people whose friendship remains with visitor for a long time. They  have no greed ,they respect their guests and despise cheating anyone.  Chitral is more famous, however, for the Kalash people who inhabit the southwestern part of the region. There is a common belief that the people of  Kalash are descendants of the soldiers from Alexander’s army, a belief which is subject to reservations by many scholars. The Kalash are colorful and fun loving people who love music and dancing.

Polo, the “Game Of Kings” played here by skillful, daring participants which is held every year in July. Chitral has the highest Polo ground in the world “The Shandur Polo Ground” which is (4,000 meters) above sea level. There is a clear joy in watching Polo Game in the fresh air and high altitude; the atmosphere produce a marked change from the crowded cities.

Music and dance have flourished for millennia. Cultural music i.e. folksongs, folkdances, music of reed instrument and that of pure Chitrali Sitar makes the person lost in wonderland. The Peaks of Chitral appears intoxicated by taking heed to Chitrali Dhool.

  

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